As a coach of 100+ new/beginner triathletes every year, I get this question A LOT. It is a very difficult question to answer and dependent upon a large number of variables that are very individual and personal to an athlete's personality, goals, needs, desires, and budget.
Typically, this question is also asked with a high regard to budgetary restrictions as well. As always, I'd recommend talking to more than one coach or fellow athlete before making any decision. The best person / people to advise you are also those who currently own AND actively ride both a tri and road bike (and ideally a cyclocross and mountain bike). Don't rely on someone who only has only one bike because you usually won't get an unbiased perspective that way. The best advisor is someone with a lot of cycling experience (both in years and types of events - road races, criteriums, cyclocross races, triathlons, etc.) who currently owns both a road and tri bike AND who knows you as an athlete personally (both your past and future aspirations in the sport). As such, a good personal coach is usually one of your best advisors.
My background (to give you some perspective):
http://www.chi-athlete.com/2011/03/ask-coach-who-are-you.html
Ok, now let's start with the various types of bikes to consider. Keep in mind this article is specific to individuals planning to do either triathlons or long (century) bike rides where hybrid and mountain bikes are typically not a serious consideration. Now, there might always be exceptions to the rule (e.g. if you're overweight and need a heavy duty hybrid or mountain bike to support your weight), but generally speaking if you're a first-time cyclist and someone is recommending a hybrid or mountain bike instead of a road bike, you're probably better off with something inbetween, which would be a cyclocross bike.
What is a cyclocross bike?
A Cyclocross is a road bike with better gearing for low speeds (climbing), with cantilever or disc brakes (better for muddier conditions and thicker tires), thicker tires (better for muddy & off-road conditions), and sometimes includes an additional set of brakes on the handlebar (not just on the brake hoods/shifters).
A cyclocross bike can look almost identical to a road bike, as they both have handlebars with curved "drops" and integrated brake/shifters in one unit (so you can quickly and easily brake and shift). The big difference between a cyclocross bike and a hybrid or mountain bike is that the hybrid/mountain bike will have a flat, straight handlebar while the cyclocroos bike will have a curved "drop" handlebar.
A cyclocross bike is sometimes considered the "swiss army knife" of bikes - one of the best multi-purpose tools you can have in your cycling quiver. It won't help you win a triathlon or bike race, and therefore not the best choice for a competitive cyclist or triathlete, but it'll do the job for almost any cycling situation. If you want a good commuter bike, something that'll work well both on and off-road, and something you can use to race in triathlons, then a cyclocross bike is your best bet.
What is a road bike?
A road bike is just like a cyclocross, with a few distinctions:
- A road bike has "higher" gearing for higher speedsThis allows you to reach max speeds up to 30mph or more on flat terrain, and 33mph+ at extremely high cadences and sprints. Road bikes can typically reach 30-40mph in flat sprints, and up to around 50-60mph on downhills (especially with drafting and aerodynamic wheels).
- A road bike does not have wide (cantilever) brakesAnd therefore is limited to very narrow "skinny" wheel/tire widths
- Has thinner, higher pressure tires than a cyclocross bikeAnd therefore is better suited for riding only on pavement and at high speeds (perfect for long bike rides like century rides and road races).
A road bike however is not designed for rough trails (e.g. crushed limestone), or rough city streets with lots of cracks in pavement, or winter riding in rough conditions (the thin tires can slip and slide much easier than a cyclocross bike).... a cyclocross bike will suit you better in those situations.
In short, a road bike has the speed of a triathlon bike, mixed with on-road versatility and nimbleness of a cyclocross bike.
What is a triathlon bike?
A triathlon bike is essentially a "time trial" bike - similar to a road bike in many ways but designed to be ridden FAST and in a straight line while resting on your forearms in a more aggressive and aerodynamic position on "aerobars" (which sometimes can be more comortable too!). It's not designed for casual rides in a "sitting up" position - and in fact, you'll likely cramp your wrists if you try to ride a triathlon / time trial bike like a road bike. The biggest difference between a road bike and tri bike is in the handlebars and the seat post angle. On a tri/TT bike, you are positioned with your center of gravity more forward with more weight over the pedals and handlebars. This is presumed to not only make you more aerodynamic, but also to help you recruit different muscle groups that will leave you less worn out when you get off the bike and start running.
The handlebars of a true tri/TT bike have the brake levers on the far ends of the handlebar (like a road bike), but the gear shifters on the ends of the aerobars. This means while you're riding "in aero" that you cannot quickly reach the brakes in case of an emergency stop (which is why tri/TT bikes are frowned upon in bike races, century, or group rides). Vice-versa, you cannot shift your gears if you're riding in an upright positions with your hands on the brake hoods (e.g. while descending or climbing!). This is why road bikes are considered more versatile with better handling - because you can actively shift gears and brake without the delay of needing to move your hand position. Likewise, this is why triathlon bike are not nimble and safe enough to be ridden on crowded bike paths and city streets - your reaction time to brake and shift gears is hindered.
Also, unless you upgrade components (e.g. a "climbing" rear wheel cassette and/or compact crankset), a tri bike will typically not have appropriate gearing or shifting ability for a very hilly bike course. These are some of the reasons why even many pro triathletes will ride road bikes (with clip on aero bars) on hilly or technical courses (like Ironman Wisconsin or the Escape from Alcatraz triathlon in San Fransisco).
If you're not going to ride your bike in "aero" position for at least 75-90% or more of your ride, a tri bike is typically not worth consideration. A road bike with aerobars is probably more worthwhile and versatile. Tri bikes should typically only be considered if:
- you're a pro or elite athlete,
- you're a very competitive age group athlete (competing for an age group podium position),
- you're planning to compete in an ironman where you'll want to be in a comfortable aero position for at least 75-100% of the day, or
- if you already own a road bike and want to spend some extra money to get a very expensive, sexy, flashy toy for your triathlon hobby.
- You are certain that you'll only be doing triathlons and have no desire to join group rides, road races, criteriums, crowded century rides, etc.
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Ok, now here are some suggestions, based on different criteria, starting with some simple scenarios.
- If you're planning to do a triathlon or long bike ride... DO NOT get a hybrid or mountain bike (exception: if you're doing an off-road / Xterra triathlon, you'll want a mountain bike; and if you're overweight, you may want to consider a heavier/sturdier hybrid or mountain bike)
- If you're not a triathlete and are just looking to get involved in cycling groups and century rides... get a road bike.
- If you're on a tight budget (under $1000)... get a cyclocross or road bike.
- If you're getting your first bike... get a cyclocross or road bike.
- If you're going to use your bike year round... get a cyclocross bike. It's much safer than a road bike for riding over rough terrain, wet, snowy, and slushy conditions and city streets.
- If you're nervous about the skinny tires of a road bike... get a cyclocross bike (over a hybrid or mountain bike)
- If you're ONLY going to do triathlons AND you have safe areas to ride (e.g. NOT the crowded lakefront and city streets of Chicago)... then it's ok to consider a tri bike.
- If you're going to be a competitive triathlete... get a road bike
- If you're going to be an ELITE triathlete... get a tri bike
- If you LOVE triathlons and want to fit in with more serious triathletes... get a tri bike
- If you have over $2500 to spend... consider buying both a tri and road bike?
A couple good points to consider:
- ALWAYS budget a little extra money ($100-$300) to get a professional bike fitting.
The only exception here is if your budget is under $500-$800 and you're strictly looking at used bikes. I recommend spending up to about 20% of your budget on a professional fitting service. Why? Because an $800 bike with a $200 bike fit will serve you much better than a $1000 bike without a professional fitting. Always invest in yourself first with services (e.g. professional bike fitting, a CompuTrainer class, etc.) that will make you perform better, be more comfortable, and remain injury free. You'll enjoy cycling more and in the long run that value is priceless. Most people who get a professional bike fitting say it's the best money they spent - even if their position is not changed significantly (because you'll learn a lot about yourself and your bike in the process!).
Versatility...
A Cyclocross is the most versatile, and a road bike is the most versatile for on-road events where you don't want to sacrifice any performance for versatility.
Budgets...
- Under $500... buy a used road or cyclocross bike (craigslist is perfect for you!)
- $500-$800... buy a high end used bike (craigslist) or entry level road/cyclocross bike
- $800-$1200... buy a high end used bike (craigslist) or decent aluminum bike (with a pro bike fitting)
- $1200-$1500... buy a decent mid-level aluminum road bike (with pro fit)
- $1500-2500... buy a decent full carbon road bike (with pro fit) or entry level tri bike (if competitive)
- $2500-$3500... buy a higher end carbon road bike with race wheels ($800-$1500), possibly a custom bike frame.
- $3500-$5,000... now we're cooking with fire! Top of the line components, high quality race wheels, and a fully custom bike frame are all options!
- $5,000-$8,000... You might want to consider allocating some $$$ towards wind tunnel testing!
- $8,000-$15,000... Tour De France or Kona caliber bike! Give Lance a call, he might have something nice he can sell you.
Here are some other articles to help you decide what kind of bike to buy...
- http://www.bikesportmichigan.com/bikes/difference.shtml
- http://www.powertri.com/roadbikevstriathlonbike.aspx
(very biased towards tri bikes - doesn't explain any of the benefits of road bikes!) - http://www.fitwerx.com/road-bike-vs-triathlon-bike-which-is-for-me
- http://ezinearticles.com/?In-Depth---Road-Bikes-Vs-Triathlon-Bikes&id=2453879
- http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/how-aero-is-aero-19273
DRAFT ARTICLE... more info coming soon!
